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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.